Update

Yes it has been a while since I entered a post the last time.

I can't believe that I am already home since almost 5 months and that I am working since 4 already.

Never I would have imagined that coming back to Switzerland would be that difficult for me. This is my home, where I feel safe and where all my family and friends are and still......

But things can only get better and I hope that this will happen soon.

Hope you are all doing fine, wherever you are.

Work!!!!

Oh my god. I never thougt that going back to work would be that hard. I started on Tuesday September 1st, and today I can say that I was lucky that to begin I had only a 4 days week.

Thursday I already wanted to quit. This work thing, wo invented it? I mean I always loved working but there are more important things then that.

Well I will keep you posted.

Busy, busy, busy

Since I am back home everything was so busy. Geneva, Lausanne, Germany, 60th B-Day of my father, my friends wedding, registering again in Switzerland, my nephews 1st school day, my brothers visit, looking for a job......

Give me some time to relax, please!!!!!!

There was a lot going on but now all the special events are over and as I know that I have a job and therefore a salary that comes in at the end of September, I can finally enjoy the last few days of my "holidays".

Now I will also be able to do all the things which have to do with Africa. Print and send pictures, send the skirt and some chocolat to Malawi and so on.

I have the impression that real life got me back far to fast.

found a job

Probably I should say lucky me, but I am not really sure yet how I should feel about going back to work.

Well but I guess to earn some money to be able to travel a litle this is what I have to do. And it would also be boring just to stay home the entire day. Would it really be?

I believe the good thing is that I don't have a regular office job but one where I can get out of the office from time to time. So I am looking forward to work with: www.apartment-service.ch

Jordan's 1st school day

Is it possible? Can it already be Jordan's 1st school day? It seems that my nephew and godson has only entered the world lately but no, it is already more then 7 years ago. And yes, Jordan is having his very first school day today.

Doesn't he look cute?

I was allowed to go with him and his mother for the 1st hour and it was really cute to see all these children being excited about entering school. Good they don't know yet, that in a few years they will be tired of going to class everyday.

It seems that his classmates have origines from all over the world. There was a boy from Germany, one from Sri Lanka, one from India, another one with a french accent and so on. Isn't this beauiful?!?!

I am sure that Jordan will make us proud, he is a smart one.

Jordan's 1st school day

Europapark Rust 11.08.2009

Europapark Rust 11.08.2009

Back "home"

It's more then a week now since I am back in Switzerland and I am really having a good time. I thought it may be difficult to get used to everything again but until now I am doing fine. Just ones, on August 1st (Swiss Nationalday) I went to the supermarket at the mainstation and there were just too many people. That was a little too much for me but other then that I am doing great.

There is one major thing which is giving me a headache, and that is the fact that I have to get back to work. People which are close to me know that I always loved working but right now it's so difficult to imagine that I will have to dress up and go to an office.

The weather was great until now, warm, sunny, just perfect. I will try to fill in the missing posts for South Africa. Please excuse but in South Africa we were on the road and as I didn't have a lot of time left I did not want to waste my time and money for the internet. But now I am back and I do have time to tell a little more about my adventure.

Soweto

For anyone who is interested in the tour, I can suggest Max, he is very friendly and originally is from Soweto. You have to know that you can book him through the backpackers / hostels but they keep too much for just making the phone call, therefore try to contact him directly:

S M Lentsoane
sl000014@mweb.co.za
sowetobymax@mweb.co.za
maximumtours@mweb.co.za
Cell No : +27827700247
Tel/Fax : +11469 5696
Box 9223
Johannesburg
2000
Republic of South Africa

Have a nice trip through Soweto.

Last complete day

Crazy how time flies by, it's already July 27th and tomorrow I am getting onto the plane towards Zuerich. 23 weeks I have been in Africa, what a wonderful time.

Once I am home I will update my blog with the adventures from South Africa. Please excuse but we have been on the road and very often I stayed in pretty rural places where I didn't want to spend my time on the internet, I hope you do understand.

South Africa!!!!

I made it!!!!

This is already my 4th day in Cape Town, I arrived on Monday at about 4pm with the Intercape (www.intercape.co.za) from Keetmanshoop. The trip was pretty ok, as we had booked the Sleepliner and therefor had a very comfortable seat.

Cape Town is amazing. This city has something special. I just came back from the Table Mountain. Actually I already wanted to go yesterday but then the "Cableway" wasn't running because it was to windy at the top. But today it was fine. The view from the top of the mountain is just wow!!!!

On Tuesday evening I have been on top of the "Lions Head". This is a mountain just next to the "Table Mountain". It actually is more a place for the locals but a guy from the "Longstreet Backpackers" went there and we could join him. It was full moon and therefore it was pretty busy. The sunset was amazing and it was a very nice moment.

I am so lucky to see all these great places around Africa and I am very grateful.

I will write a little more tomorrow as the weather forecast says that it will be raining.

Germany or Namibia?

Yesterday I arrived in Luederitz, which will be my last destination in Namibia, as I am going to South Africa tomorrow.

Namibia is a wonderful country and as I met some people and we rented a car together, we could see pretty much.

From Swakopmund we went to Solitaire, where we spent the night. I slept in the car which was warmer then the tent, but very uncomfortable. We then went to Sossusvlei and to see the "Dead Valley". I tried to walk up to Dune "Big Daddy" with the others but that was just not possible. It was around lunch time, too hot and I am probably not fit enough. But I still had a nice day.

After that we went to the Naukluft Area where we camped two night at the "Tsauchab Camp" which was really nice, but freezing cold. You have to know that it is winter in Namibia right now. But I survived and from now on I won't do any camping anymore.

From the Naukluft we went to Keetmanshoop from where we did a day trip to the "Fishriver Canyon", which was pretty impressive but........

I am doing really fine and I am soo looking forward to finally discover South Africa. Eventhough I am missing the kenyan and tansanian african flair. Here things are very German. People speak German, you can get German food, there are a lot of white people, the buildings are very German..... too much German for me ;-)

Namibia: a different Africa

I am in Swakopmund right now. This is a "small" town at the Atlantic coast in Namibia. I have been in this country now for 4 days and it is so different from the other countries I have visited until now on this trip.

But to start. On June 21st I took the Intercape (www.intercape.co.za) from Victoria Falls (ZAM Side) to Windhoek. The trip took about 20 hours and was HORRIBLE!!!! Victoria Falls was the 1st stop and therefor I got a real good place. On the upper floor right in the front. During the day it was incredible hot but during the night. Ai! Too cold! I don't know how I survived. But the cool thing was that in Katima (Namibia), Mercia got also on the Intercape. We arrived in Windhoek at about 6am and it was freezing. I decided to go to Chameleon Backpackers as there were other travelers also going there. After some problems with the taxi driver we got let in but I only got a bed at 12. Windhoek is freezing cold and I really felt like just laying into a warm bed.

The following day Mercia took Soren (a danish guy) and myself on a city tour and to the township Katuru. That was a nice experience. The township here is very "nice" compared to Kibera in Nairobi, Kenia.

Today I took a Combi (Minibus) with Soren, Rasmus and Linda to Swakopmund. We will hire a car from here to go further south. But first we will go Sandboarding tomorrow.

Zimbabwe: Victoria Falls

Oh my goodness!!!! The Victoria Falls from the ZIM side are just amazing. I mean it's the same falls but you get to see so much more.

I got back here on Friday night at about 10pm. I had a really good lift. We were like 3 women and 3 men and we had some good discussions. It is also on this ride that I met Mercia. Her mother is from South Africa, her late father from Zimbabwe but she grew up in Namibia. She is married to an Italian who runs a safari company in Windhoek (I believe). I hardly could believe as she told me that she is 36 and has 2 sons of which one is already 16. Mercia and I didn't agree on all the subjects which discussed but she is a great lady and I am happy that I met her. We all had a good laugh and I think there were some persons in this car which talked about things they will never talk about again ;-)

Mili, also a lady from the car trip stayed in Vic Falls on Saturday so she accompanied me to the falls and then came with me to see the "Big Tree". I took some pictures of her and asked if she could take some of me. Well, that wasn't very successful but hey, it was probably her first time to hold a camera in her hands.

As soon as I can upload some pictures you will see my beautiful pictures from the Vic Falls. I hope you will enjoy them.

Zimbabwe: Victoria Falls 20.06.2009

Zimbabwe: back to Bulawayo

Lucky me, I got a lift all the way from Harare to Bulawayo. A lift doesn't mean that it's free but as I was in a private car it was about half of the time I would have spent in a bus.

A "white" Zimbabwean, Brian and a lady soon to be married to a German man, were my company. They were really very nice and we had a good talk. Brian was very helpful trying to find an accommodation for me. I had booked a double room in "Packers Rest", now "Packers Paradise", but the girl who should have shared the room with me (I met her in Harare) had contacted me in the morning to inform me that she would arrive a day later. So I stayed at "Burkes Paradise" which is a really very nice place and Norman and Christine are just lovely. I had a good night there. For the 2nd night I returned to "Packers Paradise" which I actually didn't want to do but I didn't know how I could get in contact with the other girl.

I wanted to see Matobo but the company wanted to charge me USD 120, that is a little too much for a one day trip. I am sure that I will see some rock paintings somewhere else. I then decided to wait for the girl and the following day we hitch hiked (3 hours for about 20ks) to the Khami Ruins. We got on the minibus, walked, got a ride with a carriage and 3 donkeys and walked the rest. Back home we had more luck and it didn't take that long so that I could still catch a lift to Victoria Falls.

Zimbabwe: Harare and Balancing Rocks

The capital of Zimbabwe, I made it. The 1st accommodation in the Lonely Planet for Harare is USD 55 which is not true. I stayed at the "Small World" for USD 11 per night for a dorm. So that is sorted.

My mission for the first day was to try to get some money. As Zimbabwe is not using their own money anymore (except in the Combis in Harare), the ATM's are not in use. After going for 2 hours from one bank to the other I figured out that I couldn't change my Traveler Cheques. I still had some money for the following two or three days but what should I do after that? Well lucky me that there is a thing called "Western Union". Though this company wouldn't help me if I wouldn't have such great parents which are there for me or let me say for all their three children at any time. Thank you soooooo much!!!!!

THE thing to see in Harare are the "Balancing Rocks". If you ever have seen Zimbabwean money you know what I am talking about. Isn't it impressive?!?! Pictures will follow soon hopefully.

To be honest there is not a lot more I did do in Harare but I did have a good time. Just easy, no hurry, polle, polle.

Zimbabwe: Balancing Rocks 15.06.2009

Zimbabwe: Great Zimbabwe 12.06.2009

Righ now I am in Harare. Traveling in Zimbabwe is actually pretty easy, except that it's expensive compared to other African countries and that getting cash is almost IMPOSSIBLE!!!!!

From Bulawayo I took the public bus to Masvingo. I traveled with 4 guys from England, they had also decided to visit "Great Zimbabwe". 5.5 hours for 270ks.....

Great Zimbabwe is amazing. It has been built between 1200 and 1500 A.D. and is a National World Heritage Site. It was occupied by an ancestral Shona community, which I believe is the biggest "tribe" in Zimbabwe. The ruins are very impressive. The "Great Enclosure" is the largest single pre-colonial structure south of the Egyptian pyramids.

I am really happy that I did decide to come to this beautiful country. It is a shame that they get so much bad publicity. I spent the entire morning in the park and left with the other guys at about 1pm in direction of Masvingo.

Zimbabwe: Great Zimbabwe 12.06.2009

Zimbabwe

Yesterday I crossed the border into Zimbabwe.

Why Zimbabwe? Why not?

Ok, I can understand that Zimbabwe will not be the main destination for summer holidays this year but I am sure there are great things to see here. No I didn’t talk to any other travelers about the situation in the country because I didn’t meet anyone who has been to Zimbabwe (except Joe, but just for a very short trip). That is why I am so excited, coming to Zimbabwe is something really special. But I know that Cholera is over and things are more or less fine. I took the transport from the north to Bulawayo and that was very easy. Accommodation is about the same price as in Zambia but the food is a lot cheaper. But still, I only plan to spend about 9 to 10 days in this country.

Tomorrow I am going to see the Great Zimbabwean ruins, after that I will check out the Eastern Highlands, take the train from Mutare to Harare and from there back to Bulawayo. I will then return to Victoria Falls from where I plan to take the Intercape to go to Namibia.

Hope to write soon again.

PS: It is really cold here at the moment

Zambia 31.05. - 09.06.2009

There is actually not a lot I can say about this country because I haven't spent enough time exploring it. I just entered into it in Chipata, took the bus to Lusaka where I spent 2 nights and then continued to Livingstone.

The thing I can say is that I was surprised to see a "Spar" in a rather big shopping mall. I am not used to these kind of things anymore. I mean Kenya had also shopping malls but they didn't look that nice (sorry).

Zambia 31.05. - 06.06.2009

No risk no fun…….. not always true

Mike Honigberg and Brian Stone, this is all YOUR fault!!!!!!

1st of all Mike wanted to take me on a boat cruise. You pay USD 45, get snacks, dinner and you can drink as much as you want. As I don’t drink, get seasick and am not so friends with boats at the moment, I had to disappoint him. But he had signed up for the “Gorge Swing” (Abseil Zambia) for the following day and I thought I could do that with him. Lucky me I got sick.

But there was Brian and as he didn’t know what to do I told him he should do the Microlight Flight and the “Gorge Swing”. He was also scared and he wouldn’t go alone, so I agreed to go with him. I thought it may be a good preparation for the Bungee Jump in South Africa.
I got really nervous and I mean when people know that I don’t even like 1st floor balconies, they may understand that the “Gorge Swing” with a freefall of 52 meters is really a big challenge for me. I did cry a lot but hey, I signed up for it, how could I possibly turn around and walk away.

Dormitory

Fawlty Towers is a real nice backpackers in Livingstone and I have really nothing to complain about it, but I had to share the dorm with this 3 Canadian girls which were really not dorm compatible.

I know that when you decide to stay in a dorm that you must be aware that people may come in late, get up early, talk till late and stuff like that but these girls.......

For the 1st time on my trip I got sick and I spent like two entire days in bed. That would not really interest these girls, they would come back at 10.00 pm, switch on the light, discuss what they could do, stand around, go out again, come back later, switch on the light again, talk on the phone, eat sweets and just keep the light on. And if one had to go to the bathroom in the night (04.30 am) she would ask the other one, but not by going to her bed but from talking to her from the door. Then after they had packed for 1 hour at 11pm the night before leaving, it took them another 15min to pack in the morning while talking and switching the light on and off.

I am really not complicated and I can handle dorms, because backpackers do somehow have the respect for others. But these girls should have really taken a private room.

Zambia: Victoria Falls 04.06.2009

The main reason for me to come to Zambia were the Victoria Falls.

Yesterday I went to see the Victoria Falls from the Zam side (Zambia). You can not see as much as from the Zim side (Zimbabwe) but what you can see is already very impressive.

Wow!!!
I could give some adjectives as impressive, powerful, amazing, breathtaking, but this would not be enough to describe the falls. You have to come and see them to understand how amazing they are.

There are a lot of activities one can do but I opted for the Microlight flight. It was pretty expensive but I think it was really worse it. Better then climbing Mount Kili for USD 1'200. Others do Bungee Jumping, Boat cruises, White Water Rafting (who would do something like this?), helicopter flights......

This was not the 1st and last time I have seen the Vic Falls. Tomorrow or a day after I will go to Zimbabwe and see them from the Zim side. I am really looking forward to that spectacle.

Zambia: Victoria Falls 05.06.2009

Mazhandu Family Bus Services

The bus company to use between Lusaka and Livingstone.

The company has several departures from Lusaka and Livingstone.

I paid ZMK 80'000 for my ticket from Lusaka to L/Stone, this is the price for the first two buses in the morning. You book a seat and this is also where you get to sit. If you have luggage they will give you a luggage ticket just as you receive when you travel by plan. They have a little stair so that the bus can be entered easily. The bus left on time and we got a little cake and a juice.

We arrived in Livingstone on time!!!!

Malawi: Zomba Plateau 25.05.2009

The Zomba plateau is like the mountain regions in Switzerland. I went there for a one day walk. I don't even know why I decide to do these things because each time I figure out that I don't like walking, hiking or trekking.

The cheapest thing was to walk all the way up but after 30 minutes I was already out of breath and I was pretty happy when I got a ride (MKW 500) to the entrance of the plateau.

People were selling strawberries, right strawberries, figures and other things. Who would buy a figure before walking around for the day? I wanted to see the "Mandala Falls", the "William Falls", the "Queens View" and the "Emperors View". I took off without a guide, why spend more money for something I could do alone.

Then about 20 minutes into my walk a guy told me that I should take a guide because last year someone was killed. Lonely Planet also said something that people got harrassed. So as longer I went, as more afraid I got and seriously, I was keeping my "Swiss Pocket/Army Knife" open in my hand. After about 1.5 hours walk I was so scared that I asked someone if it was still far. He proposed to guide me there for MWK 500 and I just had some tears coming into my eyes. The entire pressure just left.

I did see all except the "Mandala Falls" but I had a nice picnic untop of a rock and before I started my descent I did read a little in my book and enjoyed the sun and the calm.

Malawi: Zomba Plateau 24.05.2009

Malawi: Nkhata Bay 14. - 21.05.2009

Actually I didn't plan to stay in Nkhata Bay for so long but Mayoka (cheap accom., expensive food) was a very relaxing place to hang out and I met some really nice travellers.

I didn't do a lot, just sleeping, reading, swimming, eating and talking. Actually this is more or less what I am doing since 3 month, right? Oh, I did also learn how to play the Bao game and I got really addicted to it. I got myself a board and ones I am home I will be looking for challengers.

Lake Malawi is beautiful. Actually it does look more like a sea as you are not able to see the other side of the lake.

I did also decide to do a dive with "Aqua Africa". That was my 1st dive not with Camel Dive (SSH) and I am very happy that I did it. First I was a little afraid, I actually didn't really want to go and then when I heard that we would go out with the 'boat' I was even more worried. But everything went fine and I had a great time. This was my 10th dive in 10 years ;-)

Malawi had presidential elections on Tuesday May 19th. When I first learnt about it I was a little worried but I was told that everything was fine, that Malawi wasn't like other African countries. It was great to see the local people dressing up in khangas, t-shirts and hats they were given by the parties. There were rallies, dancing and chanting in the streets and a lot of drinking. I was told that between 94 and 96% of the persons which had registered did go and vote. The previous president was elected again with about 60% of the votes. This is what I was told by a person working for an election office.
It is nice that the people go and vote because they believe in having a right and the power to decide something. Other African countries should have a closer look to the beautiful and learn a little from it.

In one of the newspapers I just read that someone wrote a book about Africa but that shouldn't be done anymore as all the countries are very different. That is true. A lot of things are the same but isn't it also like that in Western countries? This is the 4th country I am visiting and until now the cleanest one. There is just one thing about Malawian people I don't really like or I would have to get used to. They are all very, very loud. I mean people working for guesthouses should know that they have customers in the rooms sleeping but hey, who cares. If at 5.15am I want to check the different ringtones my mobilephone has I just do it. Or if I feel like talking with someone about 20 meters away I just shout to him. Other then that it seems that the most people live in brick houses, that villages are very clean, that people found a lot more ways how to make money then in Kenya or Tanzania and that there is a post office in almost each village.

Malawi: Nkhata Bay 14. - 21.05.2009

from Tanzania 2 Malawi

And another crazy bus trip in Tanzania.

So on Monday evening I was heading to find the office of Taqwa, because this is the bus company I wanted to us to travel to Karonga in Malawi. I went to Mohamed Trans to ask them where the Taqwa office was. Another guy entered and he told me he would take me to the office. Ok, no problem, is that for free? Sure. So we go to the office and I see a Tahmeed bus in front of the building which is great as Tahmeed is until now my favourite bus company. The guy, Mr. Abdullah explained me that Tahmeed and Taqwa belong together. He started writing me a paper which was ment to be my bus ticket. He said the trip would cost TSh 68'000 and that they could even drop me in Mzuzu. I wasn't very sure about all this. He did show me the plan of the bus and I could chose the seat but still, until now with Tahmeed I always got a real bus ticket. He said that he would pick me up in the morning with a taxi which I should pay now (TSh 4'000) and that he would bring me to the departure in town. Certain areas in DAR are dangerous at certain hours for the day. I said that I am not sure, that I really feel uncomfortable to give him money just like this. He did write me a petty cash but which didn't have any official sign of this bus company. "Lilian, I just called them. I am doing you a favour. The ticket office for Malawi and Zambia are at the Ubongo Busstation (TSh 20'000 by taxi), I am just trying to help you. They have even confirmed seat number 9. You have to be ready at 4.30am and then the bus will leave early in the morning. You will get the ticket tomorrow morning." Ok, I did give him the money.

The following day at 4.15 someone knocked on my door. Ok, the guard from the hotel. We went downstairs and there he was Mr. Abdullah with the taxi driver. As I was in the taxi he gave me a bon for different meals on the bus and then something typical African happened. "Listen Lilian. I have been informed that the bus does leave at the Ubongo Bus station. Now the taxi to go there does cost TSh 20'000." I tried to be nice and told him that I already had informed him the evening before, that I didn't have that much money (TSh) left. And that I hadn't booked 5 weeks ago where changes can happen but that I have gotten my ticket not even 8 hours ago and that he should have informed me then. And at the same time I asked him again for my real official ticket. "Lilian, since yesterday you still don't trust me. You only have to pay the balance from 4'000 to 10'000. I spent the entire night in the office so that I could pick you up and you still don't trust me. Do you have the money so that we can fill up the car with fuel?" I told him that normally I pay for a service after having received it and not before. And at first I didn't give him the money. So they took off without filling up the car. I asked how then we would arrive at the bus station. He said you see, we may not make it. I told him that I had already paid 4'000 the night before and that would be better then nothing. I at the end did more or less through the money at him. We turned and I thought we would go to a petrol station. But no, he stopped in a small road next to a big bus. He went out and as he came back he said: "Listen Lilian, this bus belongs to Taqwa, they will take you to the Ubongo bus station where you have to change the bus. The guy has also your ticket." It was 04.35am and I was not really relaxed anymore, so that I have even forgotten to ask him for my 6'000 which I had given him to fill up the car to go to Ubongo. I got in the bus and I also got a ticket. From another company and seat number 4.

I got into the bus and at the Ubongo bus station I did figure out that this is the bus I will use. Seat number 4 was not bad. It was next to the window and in the front row. I think we left Ubongo at about 7am, we drove 20 minutes to a petrol station and then had our first problem. Something had to be repaired. They sent someone back to the city go get a spare part. We spent 4 hours at the petrol station before taking off for our long trip.

We did drive the entire day until 01.50 the driver did hit a plastic thing which was on the road. The bad thing it was from the police what was clearly marked on the "toeggel". The bus dragged the thing with it and the police followed us. Now if you were reading my other postings you know that we are not allowed to drive in Tanzania from midnight to 4am. So there were big discussions and the police came onto the bus and I had to even show my passport and my visa. We ended up spending the night in the bus in front of the police station.

There were a few Malawians on the bus which had been living in Tanzania for years and they didn't have any passport. Not for Tanzania and not for Malawi. There was a guy which we call "Schlepper" in German who took them over the border. Now there was a man in the bus who had a newborn, the mother of the child (his wife) had died and he had decided to go back home to his family in Malawi, and he was rejected by the "Schlepper". So he had to try his luck with us in the bus. At about 11am we left the police station and headed towards the border. Now this are two borders where things are looked at very carefully and I was told that we would leave the border at about 5 or 6pm, until everything has passed the two customs and has been declared.

I had something to eat, took a shower, helped the man with the baby to get some food, gave money so he could get a local taxi because our "international" bus didn't want to have him on because of all the police checkpoints on the road and chatted with a couple from Zambia.

At about 4pm I told them that I am not upset with the Malawian border but with the guy who sold me the ticket. He had said that with this company you don't stay at the border, you arrive in Mzuzu the following morning, bla bla bla. An immigration officer heard that and asked what we were still doing here. We said that our bus waited for a truck because some passengers had stuff in there and that had to be declared. He asked why I didn't get on an IT car. Now IT cars are cars which arrive in DAR from overseas. People from Malawi, Zambia and the Congo go and get them there. You can get really cheap rides with them. The Zambian couple and I we said that nobody had told us. He felt so sorry he left and came back with the news that he had found an IT car for me. For free. More details I can not give because.......
As I figured out that the guy is going to Zambia I told him about the couple and he said that they could also come. So we left the border at about 5pm and after 20 minutes drive and 1 check point the 2nd one wasn't happy with the insurance card which was on the car and has been pretty expensive. The plate number was copied wrong and so we had to wait for someone from the immigration to come and to change it.

At the end I arrived in Mzuzu at about 9pm. I did find a place to sleep even though it was very cold and not really very clean.

I love african bus trips ;-)

Welcome to Paradise

No, I am still alive, but this is what local people call Zanzibar. And I have to say, it is beautiful!!!

To safe money I took the cheapest ferry. USD 20, 3 hrs, instead of USD 35, 1 hr. The 1st four nights I spent in Stone Town. Wondering around, visitng the market, joining a spice tour and just enjoying the island. As I arrived on Saturday it was really very, very hot. I thought there would be some wind as it is an island, but I was wrong. Deo, the brother of a friend back home came to pick me up. He took me around Stone Town and with him I visited the northern part of the island, Nungwi.

On Wednesday Jen and I took the dala dala to go up to Kenda Rocks. This hotel has been recommended to me by Karin and she was absolutely right, a wonderful place. I was happy I just took my daypack as we had to walk a short distance from the mainroad to the hotel. And as I had planned to only stay for two nights there was no need for me to bring my big bag. Actually my bag is not that big but it is heavy. I really wonder why. Back home I had really tried my best to not pack a lot of things, but for some reasons.....

The days on the beach were so nice, I just decided to extend my stay and book another two nights. It was even cheaper then Stone Town so that was another good reason to stay. On Saturday I went snorkeling and in the evening they had the "Full Moon Party". That was really nice. I don't think I have ever before danced as much.

Today is my last day in Zanzibar. I am taking the night ferry and will arrive in the early morning in DAR. Even though we had a little rain most of the days, the time here was great.

As soon as I get a faster computer with a better connection I will load up some pictures.

Tanzania: Zanzibar 02. - 10.05.2009

Greetings

This is a special greeting to HP.

I believe one, if not the most frequent reader of my blog.

I wish you a very nice weekend.

Take care
Kessy

Tanzania: DAR 28.04. - 01.05.2009

So I am in Dar Es Salaam since Tuesday this week and I do really like this place.

Yesterday and today I did a lot of walking. There is a village museum where they reconstructed housings of different tribes, that was very interesting. It was just a little hard to get on a bus to "Mwenge" as they aren't really big and there were a lot of people fighting for a place. I am not talking about a seat, it's just about getting onto the bus. A lady was so kind to help me to find the right bus and to explain me how I should fight my way in.
In the evening I had some food from a street restaurant. Now that is really cool, during the day it is just a normal sidewalk but in the evening wooden benches and tables are set up. The meal did cost me TSh 1'500 (yes I did also drink something), what is a little more then a dollar. Ugali, that is the basic food here, made out of maiz and after that you're really full for the next 12 hours. The lady who owns the "restaurant" is doing a good business. Per day she spends about TSh 70'000 on ingrediants, but in the evening she sells meals for about TSh 160'000. Ok, she has to pay 3 ladies which are working for her, but that is just a TSh 6'000 each. I was told that she has a very nice house.

Today I got up early, 7am ;-) I took my breakfast and headed to the fishmarket. That was a interesting experience and I have tosay, they are pretty well organised. So the fishermen come back and their colleagues pick up the fish from the boat. Then they are handed over to the auction. Now if you buy fish you can get them cleaned directly in Zone 2 and if you want to get them fried, you can do that right across the road. Carbon, wood, sunflower oil and spices, everything can be supplied, as it is sold just a few meters next to the big frying pans.

After that I went to "Kariakoo Market". I was told that this is the biggest market in Tanzania. It doesn't look like what we would call a market, from the outside it reminds more of a stadion. It is a 3 floor market where there sell a lot of things for farming and in the underground they are selling vegetables and fruits.

Now I also know where all the ladies buy their cloths. In the area where the market is, there are hundreds of little cloth shops. We walked around for about 2 hours. I didn't go by myself as I was told there are a lot of pickpockets there. You just pay someone a little money and they take care of everything.

In the evening I got my ferry ticket to Zansibar. Flying Horse, that is the company I booked with. The indian owner told me that I should promote his boat back at home. He was really very helpful and if we would not have said that we have to leave, we would probably still be sitting there talking to him.

This was a very nice and busy day. Now I am looking forward to see Zansibar and to relax a few days on the beautiful beaches.

I really do hope that you are all doing fine.

Tanzania: DAR 28.04. - 01.05.2009

Sometimes.....

Isn't it that we in the western countries and in Europe try to think about possibilities how to reduce CO2 and fight against climat change?

Serious, in Africa most people are more religious and they are mostly in "good relation with christ". But then, they don't really worship the greatest gift we have received from him, which I suppose is the Earth.
Garbage is thrown on the floor, into the countryside and into rivers and the cars.... in Dar Es Salaam, which is a city with paved roads, every second vehicle is a SUV. I may have been here only for a couple of days but I don't think this type of vehicle is necessary in the city. I don't mean to accuse anybody but let us be honest, for most of the persons driving these type of car it's a status symbol. They need to show that they do not belong to the poor people.

If we really want to fight the climat change, the entire world has to participate, also the poorer countries.

Another subject. In yesterdays local paper there was an article about students in the US and in France. They finish their studies but don't find a job and now they are pretty worried about what will happen. Just to inform you, this is what most of the young people here in Africa experience. The young men selling food, drinks, movies, shoes and other belongings on the streets don't do that for fun. Most of them did go to school. Some of them dropped out early because they weren't able to pay the school fees, others finished their studies. The problem is that there are just not enough jobs around. And what is really sad, even the local people, the ones which have "real" jobs sometimes treat the "streetsellers" in a respectless way. As if they would be something better, but that is just not the case.

One other thing is that people here expect westerns and europeans to help them. To send money or food but I wonder how many of the richer local people do really help their brothers and sisters. Sometimes I do feel bad when I am asked if I am a volunteer and I have to answer that I am just traveling. Many of them don't understand why someone would want to see other countries and cultures, but probably this is because they know that they never will have the opportunity to do so.

Sorry, just had to get these things of my mind.

African Bustrip: Bukoba - DAR (TAN)

I think this bustrip was what everyone of us would expect of being an african bustrip!!!

Did I write about the worste bustrip, when I was speaking about 14 hours? Well I can tell you, that was nothing compared to the bustrip between Western and Eastern Tanzania.

Ok, I was in Kabale (Uganda) and wanted to go back to Mombasa (Kenya). I could have chosen the easy way what would have ment taking the bus from:
Kabale - Kampala - Nairobi - Mombasa

but hey, I already did this trip, just the other way around. Now I would really love to travel right across Tanzania. Now there are different options I have:

Kabale - Masaka: Bus
Masaka - Bukoba: Bus
Bukoba - Mwanza: Night Ferry
Mwanza - Dodoma: Train
Dodoma - DAR: Bus

Kabale - Masaka: Bus
Masaka - Bukoba: Bus
Bukoba - Mwanza: Night Ferry
Mwanza - DAR: Bus

Kabale - Masaka: Bus
Masaka - Bukoba: Bus
Bukoba - DAR: Bus

I would have loved to do a boat trip on Lake Victoria but a Night Ferry? Why? Specially if I risk to get seasick and the ticket is rather expensive too. As I also had heard that the train can be dangerous for tourists, I decided to go by bus.

Kabale - Masaka went pretty easy, except that the seats were really not large enough. Specially when you have one of these real african Mama's sitting next to you.

Masaka - Bukoba, wai, it was getting late and for some reason I was taken of the bus and putten into a taxi. I mean taxi driving in Africa is a little different then what we are used to in Europe, but this one. We were 8 adults and 2 children in the car. In Cameroon the max I saw was 11 but here, this was different. We were 2 persons in the front on the passenger seat but the driver was also sharing his seat with an adult. Crazy. Well it was getting dark and I started to worry. I would somehow have to get to Bukoba before the following day because I wanted to take the bus there on Friday morning.

As I arrived at the border it was already dark and I was worried that immigration would be closed. But everything went fine until it came to getting a transport to Bukoba. There was a taxi but he wanted to charge 50'000 TSh, that is far too much. The 1st shared taxis would leave Mutukula (border) only at around 7am, what would be too late to catch the bus in Bukoba. As I didn't want to spend the night outside I agreed on 40'000 TSh, I think that was still too much but at that moment I didn't feel like arguing. The other thing is that in Tanzania the english skills of the locals are rather limited.

The ride to Bukoba was very scary. The driver had some problems with his car so he started turning off the motor and the lights while we were driving. And hey, here we are in Africa, it's not like there would be any lights along the streets. At that time I was really worried.

By Kiroyera Tours (www.kiroyeratours.com) I was told that "Mohamed Trans" would be the best company to travel to DAR with. I arrived there on Thursday evening at around 9pm and they told me that the buses were fully booked until Sunday. But the manager on duty was so nice to organise me a ticket for "Air Buffalo Coach". The person in charge there was so nice to also bring me to a cheap hotel just around the corner of the bus stop. As we were leaving at 6am I had to get up at 4.45am. For some reason I was so stupid to start watching some television and reading in my book.

After a short night I got up at 4.45, showered and headed over to the busstop. The guys asked me if I had paid for my luggage, yeah right, you won't get me. As there was no space for the luggage, they just put it into the bus, where during the trip everybody would just stand on it (no, my nice bag :-() "Mohamed Trans" would normally leave at 6am and arrive at 2 or 3 am the following morning. "Air Buffalo Coach" leaves at 6am and should arrive the following day at around 10am. That was the plan but: "Welcome to Africa".

For this time, instead of 28 hours, just make it 50 hours. Before I forget, this is not a normal bustrip, this bustrip ended being a police case. How this all happened? Let me tell you.

So we left Bukoba a little early, at about 5.45am. The bus was not full at that moment and it was dark and rather cold. Two rows in front of me someone had the window open, I could really not understand the reason for that.

I think we drove about 90 minutes until our 1st stop. We got more people on the bus and I asked the lady if she could close the window. She just shook her head. Now there was some problems coming up because a lady who had booked seat G1 really wanted to sit on that seat, but it was already occupied. The real african drama just started and a lot of the other passengers started commenting on the issue. Well she then had to sit down next to me. I was lucky as she wasn't big, she was not slim but ok, and as she told me she would only go till Dodoma (what actually was not true) I thought I could handel this.

It was still cold and I asked the lady next to me if she could ask them to close the window. Then finally I got the answer to my question, why this couple would not want to close the window.... they couldn't, there was no window there....

We continued and as we stopped and a few persons got off, others came in and took already occupied seats. I knew that these seats were already taken and I told the lady next to me that this would result in big problems again. And exactly that is what happened. As the people came back into the bus an wanted to take their seats an other argument started and people were shouting around. Well apparently the company had sold the seats twice. I felt really sorry for the conductor who probably was not responsible for this problem but hat to deal with these very loud african women.

I was having a lot of fun, until then but I didn't know that this would change.

We passed Singida and arrived in Ikungi at around 7pm. Something was announced and people started shouting again. Apparently the driver wanted to sleep there. In Tanzania buses are allowed to drive until midnight, then they have to stop until 4am. So the passengers weren't happy because apparently we weren't far, only a few hours, from Dodoma and we still had enough time until midnight. Afterwards I was told that there was a problem with the bus. So I got out, nobody actually knew how long this would last until we were informed that we would spend the night there and that the following morning one would go back to Singida to get a spare piece. They would have been able to fix the problem but between Ikungi and Dodoma there was a part of the road which was really bad and if the bus would break down there it could be dangerous for us. Apparently there is a lot of robbery going on and it would be better if we would stay in a small place like Ikungi.

The bus was too full, the seats too small and with the broken window it was also too cold. So I spent the night outside, next to a small gril with some guys from the bus and the men from the grill. One, his name is Shaaban said that he was about 90% sure that we would leave the place the following day. I didn't really understand why we wouldn't leave but he was right, we are in Africa.

We had a long night with plenty of different discussions. People always want to know what the differences are between the African countries I have visited. They also ask me all kind of questions which sometimes I really wonder how I should answer them. It was very cold but somehow me made it through the night.

The sun was coming out and it started to be warmer again. The other passengers got out of the bus, brushed their teeth and washed themselves. I was wondering how long it would take until we would get back on the road. Some tried to get on other buses but for me, with my big bag such a "jump" on another bus would just not have been possible. 9, 10, 11 am, what can take them so long. After the guy came back from Singida it just took them about another 2 hours to get the bus fixed.

You remember the robbery part. Well in the morning a truckdriver arrived. His head covered with blood and his hand in some bandage. Well he got attacked during the night by 10 robbers. Lucky we didn't leave Ikungi.

At 1pm we were ready to leave. Everybody was really tired and as I hadn't slept the entire night, I didn't see a lot of the countryside but fell asleep immediately. It wasn't a real sleeping because one part of the road was really very bad so that I even hit my had at the top ones.

After about 3 hours drive, just before we got to a weight station there was suddenly panic in the bus. I was sitting in the 4th last row and as I turned my head I saw the passengers from the back screaming and climbing over the seats. I had no idea what was going on and as I asked I didn't get an answer. The ones from the back tried to open windows and started jumping out. As I thought it must be something really dangerous, I also jumped out the window. That made the other passengers laugh, the Muzungu (white person) which jumps out. Hell, if someone would have told me that it's just a little smoke, I would have stayed right where I was.

At the weight station (buses and trucks have to get weighted from time to time) there were also two police officers. The passengers got them and said that they wouldn't get back on the bus. We were just about 15km away from Dodoma, the next bigger city. The officer said that we should all get in the bus, then they will weight us and he will see what he can do. We passed but the weight was not accepted as not all the passengers agreed to get back on the bus. After long discussions everybody got on the bus and we finally could get weighted. "We" had decided to drive to Dodoma to the policestation (with the bus), so that we could ask for another bus. On the way to Dodoma a police officer got on our bus. What was talked, I have no idea. We arrived at the police station and some of the people went inside. After about 1 hour a lady came out and announced something. Still not fluent in Kiswaheli ;-) I didn't understand but from the expressions on the faces I could guess. The lady, actually the OCD from Dodoma Police Station had organised us another bus "Champion". They were supposed to bring us to DAR. The "Air Buffalo Coach" would stay at the police station until that company paid "Champion" for taking us over. Everybody was so happy and just about 40 minutes later the new bus came. This one was even tighter but hey, we got a "new" bus. We took off and after 10 minutes we already stopped. Well "Champion" wanted to earn some more money and had, in this very short period of time, informed some other people which wanted to travel to DAR. Well the bus was full again and we finally could leave. It was about 7pm.

At 11.45pm we stopped and I spent the entire night in the bus. Well entire night, we took off at about 4.45am and arrived in DAR at 8.30am.

The thing I really wonder about, how did Joe, my travel buddy from the US now that the bustrip will take 2 days instead of 1 and that the bus will break down????

African Bustrip: Bukoba - DAR (TAN)

Uganda: Kabale - Lake Bunyonyi

Wow the bustrip from Fort Portal to Kabale was the worst until now concerning departure time and space, but the roads here are really in good condition.

As we (Joe and myself) arrived in Kabale we checked in to a real cheap hostel (USh 5'000) and then I directly took a Boda Boda to check out Lake Bunyonyi.

Lake Bunyonyi with it's 39 islands is apparently the deepest lake in Uganda, the 2nd deepest one in Africa and the 3rd deepest one in the entire world. And it is AMAZING. Kabale is said to be "Switzerland of Africa" and ok, it is not really if you look how the cultivate (terrasses) but they do plant the same things.

Definitely a place I can suggest.

I will write more soon.

Uganda: Kabale - Lake Bunyonyi

No!!!!!!!

I really liked Uganda, why did this happen in this country?

So we (Joe and I) left Kampala on April 9th to head towards Fort Portal. We actually wanted to take the "Post Uganda" Bus but that was full, so we got a ride with the guy bringing the mail from Kampala to Fort Portal. Getting a ride doesn't mean for free, we paid the same price as for the bus (that probably would not have been necessary). Welcome to Africa!

We stayed at a small Community Campsite, really lovely, until my mobile phone has been stolen on April 10th. This campsite is more or less in the bush but somehow they had people working on the campsite that day and then it happened. They really tried, that means they asked the possible suspects to come to the campsite, then asked them if they have stolen the mobile phone and then let them go again. I went to the local police to get a rapport for the insurance. The officer said, that if I don't have a suspect I lost the mobile phone and it hasn't been stolen. Hae?!?!?!?

Well in Fort Portal I met a guy who was really upset that the police officer hadn't told me that a mobile phone could be tracked with it's serial number. He also said that this is not how guests should be treated. Now there is the advice, always carry your mobile phone serial number with you, you never know. I contacted my father and as I keep all boxes, and know where I have packed and stored everything it wasn't such a big deal to get the requested number.

The thing is that on Easter Sunday the guy is not on duty. But what should I do another day or two in Fort Portal? We wanted to head to Kabale tomorrow, spend a night or two there or at Lake Bunyonyi, but then today we were told that tomorrow Kalita (Bus) doesn't go to Kabale. It is possible that there is another one going tomorrow at 6am, we aren't really sure about that but we will get up and check. Or perhaps I will stay here for a few more days to try to get the thing with the mobile phone sorted out. That would be "wow", if I would get it back. I was told that it works,though I don't really believe it yet.

Well I hope you're all enjoying a nice and sunny Easter Weekend.

Uganda: Lake Nkuruba - Fort Portal

Uganda: Kampala 01. - 09.04.2009

Kampala, the capital of Uganda and the city where Karin goes on her R'n R's.

The place is very different to Nairobi, but you just have to love it. Traffic wise Kampala is a big mess but it is soooo much fun, specially with the Boda Boda's. Ok, I heard some stories about accidents, but hey, I was White Water Rafting and survived.

I have seen the Mosque, apparently the 2nd biggest one in Africa, and the Kisumbu Tombs, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The rest of the time we just relaxed, read some books and enjoyed doing nothing.

The Backpackers in Kampala is really a cool place to hang out and they have good food. A lot of travelers and many volunteers which fly out from Kampala pass by there.

This city is certainly a place to visit if you nearby.

Uganda: Kampala 01.04.2009

An evening @ the hostel

This is what I would call a real hostel. Dorms, shared bathrooms, an area where you can hang around, a bookshelf, a pool tabel and a small restaurant.

I did really enjoy this place (Backpackers in Kampala, Uganda). Unfortunately on my trip these places are rather rare.

An evening @ the hostel

White Water Rafting in Jinja

I am still alive!!!!

Saturday I went White Water Rafting on the Nile. The company we went with was www.adrift.ug and they are based in Jinja. Everything was really well organized and the service was excellent.

I was really excited about this trip and at the beginning it seemed to be a real, a total fun thing. You know me, I had to go with the wild team, we actually all went wild. The first raft was pretty fine but the 2nd one, the one called "Big Brother" almost killed me. Our guide Josh told us later that we were far from dying but for the first time in live I really thought that I wouldn't see the sunrise of the following day. Our boat flipped and I tried to hold on to the boat as I was told to but a strong current underneath the surface just pulled me down. It was like on a roller coaster and I felt that I was running out of air. I know that I didn't panic, because I told myself to control my breath and I lifted my arm to see if I am close to the surface, what wasn't the case. It was dark above me and I thought that may be the boat, what would have been a good thing because our guide showed us before that underneath the boat there is space to breath. Well it was NOT the boat, actually it was just dark. We were also told to hold up our legs in front of us, I was wondering how the hell I should manage this when I was thrown around like a piece of cloth in a washing machine. Finally I made it up, but not really long enough to get air, my god, will this ever end? I made it up again and I took a deep breath and swallowed a lot of Nile water.

You see, it ended fine. Jo 2, the girl which did just sit in front of me experienced the same thing. The rest of the trip was more or less a torture for us, but I guess we were both to proud to get on the safety boat or to go back to the camp. We flipped a second time but we had asked before how long we risk to stay under water, if ever we would flip. I don't have any injury while Jo 2 also hit her feet against some rocks. You should have seen her.

Well, we cried a lot and I can really say: NEVER AGAIN!!!!!

Uganda: Jinja

14 hour busride

After a 14 hour busride starting in Nairobi at 7am, we arrived in Kampala (Uganda) at 9pm. That seems very long but actually you don't really feel it. I always travel by bus during the day so that I can see the countryside and I have to say, East Africa is so BEAUTIFUL!

Since Monday I am traveling with Joe, he is American and has been on the road since 6 month. We came to Uganda to do some 'white water rafting' in Jinja. I am really looking forward to this.

Rain!!!!

Things in Kenya are pretty bad. After the newspapers thousands of people would suffer hunger. All the stocks have been used and water is short too. Everybody is waiting for rain. Yesterday it did rain. I don't know about last week as I was in Tanzania where it also had rained but hopefully things will get at least a little better now.

When you're in the city you can't really imagine but I do read the local newspapers on a regular base and there were a lot of problems going on. People fighting over taps, tribes blocking rivers and the others living further down wouldn't get water.

The Government for some reason had to use money from the education budget (why do we always safe on education?!?!?!?) to buy food abroad. That created a lot of problems because schools wouldn't get money and they would ask the parents to pay more. As already mentioned, primary school is supposed to be free, but people still have to pay admission fee, uniform and food. I really wonder how they manage.

People died fighting over water. That is crazy and should make us all think about how we use this so important source.

The Big 5

Wow!

I have seen "The Big 5".

I never imagined enjoying safaris that much.

The Big 5

Tanzania: Serengeti / Ngorongoro Crater 25. - 28.03.2009

Tanzania: Serengeti / Ngorongoro Crater 25. - 28.03.2009

Welcome to Tanzania

I was told that the trip from Mombasa (Kenya) to Moshi (Tanzania) would take 4.5 hours and to Arusha 6 hours. Well I arrived in Arusha on March 23rd at about 3pm. Actually I wanted to travel to Moshi but on the bus an employee of a safari company told me that Moshi is just for persons climbing Kilimanjaro.

So here we are in Tanzania. I checked in to Flamingo Hotel. A really nice place. Actually the best accommodation I had so far. It was also a little more expensive, Tsh 20'000 including breakfast.

For ones I was pretty happy that someone would stand at the bus stop and bother me. He, sorry but I don't remember the name, took me to the hotel and to a safari company. My plan was to try to join a group for Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro Crater. After walking around in Arusha for 2 hours I was pretty tired and happy that I found a group. I should just go and pay the following day to be able to leave on the 25th. As I arrived in the office on Tuesday I was informed, that the couple changed their plans and that they were going to Serengeti instead of Lake Manyara.

Well I know, Serengeti. For some reason I didn't want to spend money on Serengeti as I had been to Masai Mara and this is the same Ecosystem as Serengeti.

But now I first would get a break. To get to Arusha I took the public bus and there was also a basketball team from Mombasa on it. They went to Arusha to compete at the "11th Edition Intercity Basketball Tournament". I walked around for 1.5 hrs to figure out that the stade was just 2 minutes from my hotel. So I spent about 4 hours at the tournament, outdoor and almost got burned. But everything is under control. In the evening I went for diner and met two Spanish guys which live in Arusha. Well not exactly in Arusha, they do live in the bush. They were so kind to take me out for a drink at the Arusha Backpackers.

Wednesday I really had to find a group so I started walking around again. And I got lucky, I had two possibilites:

Leave on Thursday for a 2 night safari to Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro Crater with a couple or leave the same day, join a group (2 guys) which already visited Lake Manyara and see Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. As I wasn't decided I told both agencies that I would recontact them. I went to see another basketball game and met a tour guide I was introduced to the day before. I asked for his advice and he suggested to see Serengeti. So here we go.....

Welcome to Tanzania: Arrival in Arusha

Kenya: Mombasa 20. - 23.03.2009

Alone again!!! Sniff!!!!

Mombasa, what can I say. I thought I would at least meet a few travelers, but I was wrong. I checked in to a hotel from the Lonely Planet, but it's low season and as already mentioned, the others probably travel the other way around.

But I am in Mombasa and I should look around a little. On my first day I wanted to do what is written in my travel guide, a city tour by foot, but I got "lost" and walked around in the docks for about 1.5 hrs, until I took a Matatu to get out of there. I just walked around in the city, went to see the Tusks and got some local food from the streets. I am really surprised that until now I haven't been sick yet.

I went to see the Old Town where a very nice person allowed me to get on his veranda to see where Fort Jesus was. He is a coach of the Kenyan Triathlon Team, had traveled a lot and was very educated. Not that the other Kenyans wouldn't be, but well, I am sure you understand. I didn't enter Fort Jesus, just had a look around it. I am not so into museums and as I am not really interested it would have just been a waste of money. The afternoon I spent at the internet, trying to get my pictures onto picasa and on my flash. But it was also to keep myself busy and not to think about how lonely I am. My trip in 2006 was so different. There were travelers just everywhere and you actually never were alone. I questioned the meaning of traveling alone. Wouldn't it be nicer to be able to share all these experiences with someone to whom you are close? I mean it's not like if I would go to France or Germany, this is a complete other world and there is so much to discover. (Thanks to Stefan and Lorenz for cheering me up).

As it seemed that there was not really a lot to do in Mombasa I got myself a bus ticket from Tahmeed to go to Moshi on Monday morning 7am. Moshi is a city or village from where you would start your Mount Kilimanjaro Trek. After that I got a City Tour with a Tuk Tuk, as it was just too humid to walk around. The driver explained a lot and was really very nice. His name was "Dick", really, I am not kidding.

Well who knows, perhaps I will be back one day.

Kenya: Mombasa 20. - 23.03.2009

from Nairobi to Watamu

Ai, as Mount Kenya was really a challenge (for me, Karin was fine), we needed to relax our bodies on the beach, so we headed to Watamu.

Watamu is a small village on the east coast of Kenya. North from Mombasa and that means far away from Nairobi.

So on Monday March 16th, (I am on the road since 1 month) we took the bus from Nairobi to Mombasa. It took us 8 hours and cost KES 1'200.00. The bus trip was pretty ok as we took the bigger one to be more comfortable. Also the bus was not full so each of us got 2 seats (except, Karin you know).

The bus would only make 2 stops. One after 4 hours to have lunch and then another one, 1 hour after lunch in Voi. On Mount Kenya I did drink a lot and for some reasons I would have to ease myself every 2 hours. But I managed and controlled myself for almost 2 hours until we finally made the long awaited lunch break.

Wow, the climate in Mombasa is very different from the one in Nairobi. It's very humid and really, it's not a nice feeling, but at least we weren't cold anymore.

Martin, the Manager from the place we would stay (Beach Villas) told us that we would have to take a Matatu from Mombasa to Gedi and from there to Watamu. It was almost that simple and we arrived well in Watamu.

What a surprise. As we get out of the Matatu everybody speaks in German to us. We then learn that this corner has mostly Italian, German and Wwiss tourists. Oh my god!!!!

It's a cute little village but we didn't really go sightseeing because it was just tooooo hot. Plus Karin really had to relax, as she will have to go back to work on Monday.

Kenya: Watamu 16. - 19.03.2009

Kenya: Mount Kenya 12. - 15.03.2009

1st day (12.03.2009): Nairobi - Old Moses
9km / 2650m - 3300m / 3 hrs.

2nd day (13.03.2009): Old Moses - Shiptons Camp
14km / 3300m - 4200m / 7 hrs.

3rd day (14.03.2009): Shiptons Camp - Peak Lenana - Shiptons Camp - Old Moses
Shiptons - Peak Lenana - Shiptons: 5km / 4200m - 4985m - 4200m / 3 hrs. + 1.5 hrs.
Shiptons Camp - Old Moses: 14km / 4200m - 3300m / 4 hrs.

4th day (15.03.2009): Old Moses - Gate - Nairobi
9km / 3300m - 2650m / 2 hrs.


Finally back in the warm, and we made it.

I did enjoy the 3rd day, the 3hrs walk to the peak and the walk back to Old Moses. The countryside here is so nice. I have to admit, they have some really funny plants here.

But day number 1 and 2 weren't for me. Due to the fact that I didn't enjoy the entire trip and Karin's reasoning, I will most probably not climb Kilimandjaro. It is very expensive. So why should I do the same thing again, just longer and spend more money if I don't really enjoy it. I rather do something else like a horseback trek.

Now we definitely deserved some days at the beach. Tomorrow we are heading to Watamu, that is on Kenyas eastcoast.

Kenya: Mount Kenya 12. - 15.03.2009

Kenya: Masai Mara / Lake Nakuru 08. - 11.03.2009

1st day (08.03.2009): Nairobi - Masai Mara / Evening Game Drive
We got picked up at around 8am but we didn't leave Nairobi until 10, but that is Africa, there is nothing you can do about it. We were a group of 6 but one, the only man would just be the 1st day with us. We then would be 2 girls from the US, one from Canada, Karin and myself. There was the driver Nathaniel and a cook.
We had lunch in Narok, a small and dusty village in the middle of nowhere. But I guess for here it was a smaller city. After we checked in at the camp we left at 4pm for an Evening Game Drive and we were so excited. Zebras, Giraffes, Chijtas, Lions, Gazelles, Wildebeests, Impalas, Topis, Buffalos, Servals and Hartebeests, wow. Before I left Switzerland I thought, ok, Safari, see some animals, but ones you're there it is just, wow!!!!!

2nd day (09.03.2009): Masai Mara Game Drive
The entire day we spent in Masai Mara which is the northern part of the Serengeti. In this Nationalpark it is possible to see the Big 5: Elephant, Lion, Rhino, Leopard and Buffalo. Again this was a very exciting day. Within the 1st hour we would see a male lion walking very proudly on the street coming really close to the cars. We saw a big group of Buffalos, and then, our 1st Elephants. And lucky as we were there were baby Elephants there too. We had lunch at the River Mara where we also met the Vervet Monkeys, they are also called the Blue Ball Monkeys because their balls are blue. That is the truth, check the pictures. The hippos weren't really nice to us. Before we were close enough they would open their mouths widely but as soon as we were in position to take a picture they just thought about sleeping. There was also a crocodile and we were surprised to see some autriches.

3rd day (10.03.2009): Sunrise Game Drive / Masai Mara - Lake Nakuru
This isn't what I call a holiday. We left the camp at 06.15 for a sunrise game drive. It was really a good thing that we got up because we were able to see 2 lions with 3 cubs. It was really very difficult to get a good look on them because their mother would hide in the bushes and make us move from one side to the other.
We went back to the camp, took our breakfast and left Masai Mara for Lake Nakuru where we would see the pink Flamingos the following day. And Nathaniel promised us that we would see the Rhino, so after that we would only be missing the Leopard out of the Big 5.

4th day (11.03.2009): Lake Nakuru Game Drive / Lake Nakuru - Nairobi
Again a wonderful day and we were all looking forward to the Rhino and the pink Flamingos. It is amazing, on the 1st day at Masai Mara we were all excited when we would see a Giraffe or a Zebra, now we would just say something like: "ah, ok". But we were also tired I have to admit, spending hours and hours in the car, watching out for animals is very exhausting. We did see a lot of yellow Pelicans, Marabu Storcks, pink Flamingos and we did also see a few White Rhinos, some Buffalos, two Rock Hyroxs and a Chaqual.

We got back to Nairobi at about 4pm and were very tired. But it was a wonderful trip and a great experience. I am so lucky being able to do all this.

We will not get a lot of rest because tomorrow we will start our trek to Mount Kenya. Why? Who had this idea?

Kenya: Masai Mara / Lake Nakuru 08. - 11.03.2009

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Dear All

Please be informed that ALL the rights, for ALL the pictures on this blog (www.lilouclark.blogspot.com) and on the Picasa Account lilou.clark@gmail.com, are reserved by Lilian Kalsang Lhamo CLARK.

Kind regards,
Lilian

Nairobi News 02: Kibera

Still alive.

It's already Saturday and in one hour I am off to the airport to go and pick up Karin, who is flying in from Kampala. We will spend the next two weeks together.

As already mentioned yesterday, I had the opportunity to go to Kibera. I was told that in the meantime this is the biggest slum in Africa. It definitely is the biggest one on the east coast of Africa.

Stefan had proposed to take us there. Us means Mojca and myself. Mojca is a slovenian girl who is staying at the same hostel as myself. We left town at 01.30pm because walking through Kibera would take a while and we didn't want to be in there while it would get dark.

First we went to a Rehabilitation Center for Boys. That was also a very nice experience. These kids are just so cute and they had real good manners. Yesterday I wrote that Stefan had organized 2 securities, well at the end we had 5 young men accompanying us. 4 of them do stay in Kibera so we should be safe.

Kenya: Kibera 06.03.2009

We walked and walked. This slum is so big, you can't even imagine. Some areas are really dirty and then you have parts which are cleaner. You can see women in skirts and heels which live there because the rent is cheaper then if they would live in Nairobi. I don't know how they manage but probably I am spoiled anyway.

We got home late and we were completely exhausted but it was really worse it. I am so fortunate to be able to experience all this. Thanks to Stefan.

Cameroon post

I have just added the Cameroon post with date March 3rd 2009.

Nairobi News 01: City and Kangemi

I don’t know what it is, but there is something about Nairobi. I do really like this place. Perhaps it’s just because it is a big city and I didn’t have this since a while. Sharm was not a big city and in Cameroon in Dibanda Mile 14 it also was not exactly what one would call a city.

On Tuesday, my 2nd day in Nairobi I met Stefan at the internet in town. He is from Switzerland and comes to Kenya since a few years and does sponsor children, so that they can go to school. It’s great to meet someone who knows his way around and can help you out.

Wednesday I took it easy in the morning. I went for a big breakfast at the Savanna and read the local newspaper “The Standard”. Later I met with Mojca, a Slovenian girl who is staying at the same Youth Hostel as me. We were checking out some tours but hers would have cost too much and I was not that keen about the place. As I still have a lot to see I rather use the money to see the things which are a priority for me. I went to 3 different travel agencies to get an idea. Now all depends on Karin, my friend who is coming over from Kampala tomorrow. She has only two weeks holidays so we will definitely do what she wishes. Later I met with Mojca again and we took a walk through the city and went on top of the KANU Tower to have a look at the city from the top. Nairobi seems to me like a very green place, that is also due to the fact, that the Nairobi Nationalpark just boarders the city. The climate is still great, not to hot and not to cold, just perfect for my taste.

We always make sure that we get home when it starts getting dark. Actually I am not really worried because I make sure that I get home in time and when I am lost I try not to look so. Well Wednesday our bus got checked. That means the police stops the bus and everybody has to get off. They then check the passengers and the bus and then you can get on again.

Now yesterday I went to visit a ghetto of Nairobi. Easy, it’s me writing this so I am still alive and everything is fine (nobody chopped my head). Stefan had told me on Wednesday that he would go to visit a school in the ghetto (Kangemi) and asked if I would be interested to go with him. Sure, no risk no fun, right Tamara?!?!?!? I met him at the internet and he told me he would 1st have to check again if we could go, because there were some problems. So I try to get this right. Kenya has different ethnies and one of them are the Kikuyus. Out of them in the early 50th a group was created, the Mungikis. They were helping the poor people but in the 70th this changed and they started to be corrupt. Well that is what I was told. Now they act like the Mafia, some call them a sect and if they decide that there is no transport to Westland (where the ghetto is), then so it shall be. In the late afternoon we saw hundreds of people walking home from the city (1.5 hrs) because they wouldn’t get a bus. They can also come and visit you and if you can not pay it may be that they kill you and cut your head. Stefan knew a guy who came to pick us up at the main road in the ghetto and there was nothing to see. Ok, it’s not like I would have loved to look into a gunbarrel of a gun, but a little action…… We went to visit the school where he will sponsor 3 or 4 children. As example, Christine is 10 years old, she should be in Primary School since she was 6 years old but she is still in Nursery School because her parents can not pay for the school. Public, Governmental schools are FREE, but the parents need to pay the admission fee, the uniform and the food. The total for one year school would be KES 7’200, that is approx. CHF 110.00. We did a lot of walking because we went to visit the families of these children. It doesn’t really make sense when you want to sponsor a child but the parents will not support it and make it work the entire spare time as soon as it comes home from school. If I need to compare Mile 14 (Cameroon) with the place I have been yesterday, Nembo’s place would be like a paradise. Not the room, it’s about the same size and in both places they split it up in living and bedroom. But the environment was a lot nicer in Cameroon.

It was a great experience and I am happy that I went there.

Further up I wrote that our bus got checked by the police. I asked Stefan for the reason of this. He told me that recently public buses got high-jacked (I don’t know if this is the correct spelling). There are groups getting into the bus, naturally you can not define them as a group, well and then at some point they kidnap the bus. Stefan told me that his friend who works at the internet got kidnapped while using a public bus about 2 weeks earlier.

Take are and hopefully I will be able to write some more. Today we are going to the real ghetto, Stefan is even organizing two securities……

Kenya: Nairobi and Kangemi 02.03. - 05.03.2009

I am getting.....

really tired of this!!!!!!

As the internet was very slow a few days ago, I started writing the post for the blog in Word. I finished some of it and wanted to post it now on the blog, but for some reason it doesn't work.

So I am sorry but I am still trying.

Nothing to worry

There is nothing to worry about. I am doing fine. Sorry that I didn't write earlier but the internet connection in Cameroon was very poor.

More is coming either today or tomorrow.

Cameroon 17.02. - 01.03.2009

It has been a while since my last posting, I am sorry, but the internet connection in Cameroon, Mutengene was not the best. But let me tell you how my 12 days in Evaristus' family have been.

The flight from Zurich to Douala was fully booked. The seats were occupied by mostly Africans and just a few "white people" were on the plane with me. But I had a very good 1st impression. I was in a row of 2 seats and had the one next to the window. Next to me was Bertin, a young Cameronian (?) guy who lives in Lille and went to visit his family he hadn’t seen for I believe 5 years. Everyone around me was very nice and most of the time we were talking to each others.

We had left Zurich late but as it only took 6 hours we arrived in Douala at 8.15pm.
Wow, it was pretty hot and the sweat was just running down my face. I actually did not want to carry a lot of hand luggage, but with the radio and the other things I brought for the family it was just not possible to avoid it. So I tried to handle the APO procedures feeling hot, dirty and overloaded. First I had to pass the "Yellow Fever Station", after that came the passport control and then followed the baggage area. That was crowded with locals trying to get you to hire them to pick your luggage and bring it out to the taxi. But I am still young and there is at least one person waiting for me outside, so there is no use. The luggage came on two different belts so you had to run from one to the other. I got my luggage but now, where is the ticket for it, because without showing the ticket they would not let us leave the airport.

I looked outside and could see Nembo, actually it is Evaristus, standing close to the window. I got out and we hugged each other and before I even was able to realize, there was another person coming out of the crowd, hugging me and wanting to take off my luggage. Actually there were 8 persons which came with Evaristus to the airport to pick me up. They had left Mile 14 at 4pm to be sure that they would be at the airport in time. As there was no traffic jam they were waiting for me since 5pm. Evaristus had hired a minibus for CFR 30’000 to bring them to the airport and to take them back. That is necessary because getting from one place to the other in Cameroon is very complicated. Public Transports are only allowed to drive around in a certain area, lets say district, they are not allowed to cross into another one, except if they have a “laisser passer” which they have to apply for and which costs about CFR 10'000 from Mile 14 to the airport.

Constance told me later that before coming to pick me up she went to the hairdresser. She told the other ladies that she would go to the airport to pick up her husbands friend. Some of them asked her if they could go with her. The reason for this was that they had never been to the airport and just wanted to see it. Also for Evaristus and Constance it was the 1st time they went to the airport.

The nice thing was that I didn’t feel embarrassed or anything like this. It was like I would have seen Evaristus already before.

The ride home was interesting too. While leaving Douala, all along the road on the left and on the right you would have small shops, people selling food or any other things someone could use.

I may have not seen a lot from the country but that will be for the next time. I am happy that I could be in a family and see how they live. Evaristus’ family just has a single room for the 5 of them. Yes 5! I was actually very surprised because I just knew that he got married and that they had a son in October 2004. Actually this is not true but let me explain you:
In 2004 I was told by him that he would have a baby and he wanted me to choose the name for it. I really struggled but then came up with the name “Damian” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Father_Damien)as I was informed that it was a babyboy. So since October 2004 I thought that Evaristus and Constance had a boy who’s name was Damian Smith…….. So normal, as I arrived at the airport I asked where Damian was. I was told that he would be at home because he was still a little sick. On Christmas he had Malaria. So we arrive at the house and there comes a girl which was about 4 years and a small boy. I didn’t really understand and Evaristus then explained me. When the 1st child was born he was not at the maternity. He was called and when he asked if it was a male or a female he understood male. Later he found out, that it was a girl and he was worried to tell me because he thought I would think bad about him. So on October 1st 2004 Constance gave birth to a girl which is named Daisy. Daisy is very special, a little stubborn but I am sure that she will make her way. Constance got pregnant again and the only thing what Evaristus wanted was the baby to be a boy, because he already had the name for it. He told me that he was sooooo happy as Constance gave birth to a boy on November 1st 2007. Then there is a 3rd child, her name is Nadesh. It is Constance’s 1st born and she is already 12 years old. A very shy girl. So that it is about the family. These 5 persons do normally live in a single room which is just separated by a curtain into living and bed room. So that we would have “enough” space they rented an additional room for the two girls. I slept with Constance and Damian in the bed and Evaristus spent the nights on the sofa. I guess the room must have had only 12m2.

I was told that when they will cook for me upon arrival I should definitely finish the plate. Well good for me that Evaristus had asked me before coming what I like to eat. No pepper was my answer. He forgot and the sauce for the fish was just too much. I did finish about ¾ of the plate but I wasn’t able to finish it completely. I was also a little afraid that I could get problems with my stomach and I didn’t want to risk that.

Everyday someone passed to come and welcome me in Cameroon. And even if the people were very poor they still would bring some bananas, potatoes, pineapples or other fruits. Almost everyday I got a gift. I told them that in Switzerland we do not bring fruits but that I will do this the next time I am invited and then we will see how they will react, when I arrive with some bananas.

Constance has a little workshop. She is a taylor and she makes very nice African cloths. Live is very simple but hard work. Everything is done manually. Washing, cooking, cleaning and even taking your bath. There was no shower, just a toilet where I could go in to wash myself with water out of the bucket which I had filled at the tab earlier on. I warmed the water just the 1st day, afterwards I was just using the cold water. I didn’t want to make too much trouble and if I go and stay with them, then I try to do just as them.

It rained 2 or 3 times but just for a short while. There were a lot of Moskitos and other insects. In one night there were even 2 INSIDE my Moskito net. I woke up the entire family. It was very hot and humid. Horrible, nothing I really would want each day. Also how the day starts. At 6 the neighbor starts to listen to his music, wow!!!! At 6.30 the 1st children are crying and the chickens outside make also more then enough noise. The wake up is very lowed and not gentle like what I was used to.

But Cameroon was a great experience. People are so nice and I had a great time. Hopefully one day I can show them our country and how we do things.

Thank you to Evaristus and Constance, the rest of the family, their friends and all the persons which passed to welcome me to Cameroon.


So, since yesterday morning I am in Nairobi (Douala - Nairobi 1916 miles). Everything went fine at the airport. Well I had forgotten my passport in the restroom but I remembered early enough to get back in time to find my passport still being there. There was a long queue for the visas but I got mine pretty fast.
I really do like this place. The climate here is better for me then the one in Cameroon. It is not as humid and there is a nice wind. The people here are very, very friendly. If you ask for the way they even want to bring you there. The only thing is the hostel I had booked from Cameroon. The people came to pick me up from the airport and were also very friendly, but the bathroom...... it stinks!!!! But I was told that this is because there were problems with the power and the water. And it's true, it is already better today.
Now I am just relaxing, washing and using the internet while I am waiting for Karin to meet me here on March 7th. Karin is my childhood friend and she is working in the D.R.C. since June last year. We will spend two weeks together, yippi!!

Cameroon 17.02. - 01.03.2009