Nairobi News 02: Kibera

Still alive.

It's already Saturday and in one hour I am off to the airport to go and pick up Karin, who is flying in from Kampala. We will spend the next two weeks together.

As already mentioned yesterday, I had the opportunity to go to Kibera. I was told that in the meantime this is the biggest slum in Africa. It definitely is the biggest one on the east coast of Africa.

Stefan had proposed to take us there. Us means Mojca and myself. Mojca is a slovenian girl who is staying at the same hostel as myself. We left town at 01.30pm because walking through Kibera would take a while and we didn't want to be in there while it would get dark.

First we went to a Rehabilitation Center for Boys. That was also a very nice experience. These kids are just so cute and they had real good manners. Yesterday I wrote that Stefan had organized 2 securities, well at the end we had 5 young men accompanying us. 4 of them do stay in Kibera so we should be safe.

Kenya: Kibera 06.03.2009

We walked and walked. This slum is so big, you can't even imagine. Some areas are really dirty and then you have parts which are cleaner. You can see women in skirts and heels which live there because the rent is cheaper then if they would live in Nairobi. I don't know how they manage but probably I am spoiled anyway.

We got home late and we were completely exhausted but it was really worse it. I am so fortunate to be able to experience all this. Thanks to Stefan.

Cameroon post

I have just added the Cameroon post with date March 3rd 2009.

Nairobi News 01: City and Kangemi

I don’t know what it is, but there is something about Nairobi. I do really like this place. Perhaps it’s just because it is a big city and I didn’t have this since a while. Sharm was not a big city and in Cameroon in Dibanda Mile 14 it also was not exactly what one would call a city.

On Tuesday, my 2nd day in Nairobi I met Stefan at the internet in town. He is from Switzerland and comes to Kenya since a few years and does sponsor children, so that they can go to school. It’s great to meet someone who knows his way around and can help you out.

Wednesday I took it easy in the morning. I went for a big breakfast at the Savanna and read the local newspaper “The Standard”. Later I met with Mojca, a Slovenian girl who is staying at the same Youth Hostel as me. We were checking out some tours but hers would have cost too much and I was not that keen about the place. As I still have a lot to see I rather use the money to see the things which are a priority for me. I went to 3 different travel agencies to get an idea. Now all depends on Karin, my friend who is coming over from Kampala tomorrow. She has only two weeks holidays so we will definitely do what she wishes. Later I met with Mojca again and we took a walk through the city and went on top of the KANU Tower to have a look at the city from the top. Nairobi seems to me like a very green place, that is also due to the fact, that the Nairobi Nationalpark just boarders the city. The climate is still great, not to hot and not to cold, just perfect for my taste.

We always make sure that we get home when it starts getting dark. Actually I am not really worried because I make sure that I get home in time and when I am lost I try not to look so. Well Wednesday our bus got checked. That means the police stops the bus and everybody has to get off. They then check the passengers and the bus and then you can get on again.

Now yesterday I went to visit a ghetto of Nairobi. Easy, it’s me writing this so I am still alive and everything is fine (nobody chopped my head). Stefan had told me on Wednesday that he would go to visit a school in the ghetto (Kangemi) and asked if I would be interested to go with him. Sure, no risk no fun, right Tamara?!?!?!? I met him at the internet and he told me he would 1st have to check again if we could go, because there were some problems. So I try to get this right. Kenya has different ethnies and one of them are the Kikuyus. Out of them in the early 50th a group was created, the Mungikis. They were helping the poor people but in the 70th this changed and they started to be corrupt. Well that is what I was told. Now they act like the Mafia, some call them a sect and if they decide that there is no transport to Westland (where the ghetto is), then so it shall be. In the late afternoon we saw hundreds of people walking home from the city (1.5 hrs) because they wouldn’t get a bus. They can also come and visit you and if you can not pay it may be that they kill you and cut your head. Stefan knew a guy who came to pick us up at the main road in the ghetto and there was nothing to see. Ok, it’s not like I would have loved to look into a gunbarrel of a gun, but a little action…… We went to visit the school where he will sponsor 3 or 4 children. As example, Christine is 10 years old, she should be in Primary School since she was 6 years old but she is still in Nursery School because her parents can not pay for the school. Public, Governmental schools are FREE, but the parents need to pay the admission fee, the uniform and the food. The total for one year school would be KES 7’200, that is approx. CHF 110.00. We did a lot of walking because we went to visit the families of these children. It doesn’t really make sense when you want to sponsor a child but the parents will not support it and make it work the entire spare time as soon as it comes home from school. If I need to compare Mile 14 (Cameroon) with the place I have been yesterday, Nembo’s place would be like a paradise. Not the room, it’s about the same size and in both places they split it up in living and bedroom. But the environment was a lot nicer in Cameroon.

It was a great experience and I am happy that I went there.

Further up I wrote that our bus got checked by the police. I asked Stefan for the reason of this. He told me that recently public buses got high-jacked (I don’t know if this is the correct spelling). There are groups getting into the bus, naturally you can not define them as a group, well and then at some point they kidnap the bus. Stefan told me that his friend who works at the internet got kidnapped while using a public bus about 2 weeks earlier.

Take are and hopefully I will be able to write some more. Today we are going to the real ghetto, Stefan is even organizing two securities……

Kenya: Nairobi and Kangemi 02.03. - 05.03.2009

I am getting.....

really tired of this!!!!!!

As the internet was very slow a few days ago, I started writing the post for the blog in Word. I finished some of it and wanted to post it now on the blog, but for some reason it doesn't work.

So I am sorry but I am still trying.

Nothing to worry

There is nothing to worry about. I am doing fine. Sorry that I didn't write earlier but the internet connection in Cameroon was very poor.

More is coming either today or tomorrow.

Cameroon 17.02. - 01.03.2009

It has been a while since my last posting, I am sorry, but the internet connection in Cameroon, Mutengene was not the best. But let me tell you how my 12 days in Evaristus' family have been.

The flight from Zurich to Douala was fully booked. The seats were occupied by mostly Africans and just a few "white people" were on the plane with me. But I had a very good 1st impression. I was in a row of 2 seats and had the one next to the window. Next to me was Bertin, a young Cameronian (?) guy who lives in Lille and went to visit his family he hadn’t seen for I believe 5 years. Everyone around me was very nice and most of the time we were talking to each others.

We had left Zurich late but as it only took 6 hours we arrived in Douala at 8.15pm.
Wow, it was pretty hot and the sweat was just running down my face. I actually did not want to carry a lot of hand luggage, but with the radio and the other things I brought for the family it was just not possible to avoid it. So I tried to handle the APO procedures feeling hot, dirty and overloaded. First I had to pass the "Yellow Fever Station", after that came the passport control and then followed the baggage area. That was crowded with locals trying to get you to hire them to pick your luggage and bring it out to the taxi. But I am still young and there is at least one person waiting for me outside, so there is no use. The luggage came on two different belts so you had to run from one to the other. I got my luggage but now, where is the ticket for it, because without showing the ticket they would not let us leave the airport.

I looked outside and could see Nembo, actually it is Evaristus, standing close to the window. I got out and we hugged each other and before I even was able to realize, there was another person coming out of the crowd, hugging me and wanting to take off my luggage. Actually there were 8 persons which came with Evaristus to the airport to pick me up. They had left Mile 14 at 4pm to be sure that they would be at the airport in time. As there was no traffic jam they were waiting for me since 5pm. Evaristus had hired a minibus for CFR 30’000 to bring them to the airport and to take them back. That is necessary because getting from one place to the other in Cameroon is very complicated. Public Transports are only allowed to drive around in a certain area, lets say district, they are not allowed to cross into another one, except if they have a “laisser passer” which they have to apply for and which costs about CFR 10'000 from Mile 14 to the airport.

Constance told me later that before coming to pick me up she went to the hairdresser. She told the other ladies that she would go to the airport to pick up her husbands friend. Some of them asked her if they could go with her. The reason for this was that they had never been to the airport and just wanted to see it. Also for Evaristus and Constance it was the 1st time they went to the airport.

The nice thing was that I didn’t feel embarrassed or anything like this. It was like I would have seen Evaristus already before.

The ride home was interesting too. While leaving Douala, all along the road on the left and on the right you would have small shops, people selling food or any other things someone could use.

I may have not seen a lot from the country but that will be for the next time. I am happy that I could be in a family and see how they live. Evaristus’ family just has a single room for the 5 of them. Yes 5! I was actually very surprised because I just knew that he got married and that they had a son in October 2004. Actually this is not true but let me explain you:
In 2004 I was told by him that he would have a baby and he wanted me to choose the name for it. I really struggled but then came up with the name “Damian” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Father_Damien)as I was informed that it was a babyboy. So since October 2004 I thought that Evaristus and Constance had a boy who’s name was Damian Smith…….. So normal, as I arrived at the airport I asked where Damian was. I was told that he would be at home because he was still a little sick. On Christmas he had Malaria. So we arrive at the house and there comes a girl which was about 4 years and a small boy. I didn’t really understand and Evaristus then explained me. When the 1st child was born he was not at the maternity. He was called and when he asked if it was a male or a female he understood male. Later he found out, that it was a girl and he was worried to tell me because he thought I would think bad about him. So on October 1st 2004 Constance gave birth to a girl which is named Daisy. Daisy is very special, a little stubborn but I am sure that she will make her way. Constance got pregnant again and the only thing what Evaristus wanted was the baby to be a boy, because he already had the name for it. He told me that he was sooooo happy as Constance gave birth to a boy on November 1st 2007. Then there is a 3rd child, her name is Nadesh. It is Constance’s 1st born and she is already 12 years old. A very shy girl. So that it is about the family. These 5 persons do normally live in a single room which is just separated by a curtain into living and bed room. So that we would have “enough” space they rented an additional room for the two girls. I slept with Constance and Damian in the bed and Evaristus spent the nights on the sofa. I guess the room must have had only 12m2.

I was told that when they will cook for me upon arrival I should definitely finish the plate. Well good for me that Evaristus had asked me before coming what I like to eat. No pepper was my answer. He forgot and the sauce for the fish was just too much. I did finish about ¾ of the plate but I wasn’t able to finish it completely. I was also a little afraid that I could get problems with my stomach and I didn’t want to risk that.

Everyday someone passed to come and welcome me in Cameroon. And even if the people were very poor they still would bring some bananas, potatoes, pineapples or other fruits. Almost everyday I got a gift. I told them that in Switzerland we do not bring fruits but that I will do this the next time I am invited and then we will see how they will react, when I arrive with some bananas.

Constance has a little workshop. She is a taylor and she makes very nice African cloths. Live is very simple but hard work. Everything is done manually. Washing, cooking, cleaning and even taking your bath. There was no shower, just a toilet where I could go in to wash myself with water out of the bucket which I had filled at the tab earlier on. I warmed the water just the 1st day, afterwards I was just using the cold water. I didn’t want to make too much trouble and if I go and stay with them, then I try to do just as them.

It rained 2 or 3 times but just for a short while. There were a lot of Moskitos and other insects. In one night there were even 2 INSIDE my Moskito net. I woke up the entire family. It was very hot and humid. Horrible, nothing I really would want each day. Also how the day starts. At 6 the neighbor starts to listen to his music, wow!!!! At 6.30 the 1st children are crying and the chickens outside make also more then enough noise. The wake up is very lowed and not gentle like what I was used to.

But Cameroon was a great experience. People are so nice and I had a great time. Hopefully one day I can show them our country and how we do things.

Thank you to Evaristus and Constance, the rest of the family, their friends and all the persons which passed to welcome me to Cameroon.


So, since yesterday morning I am in Nairobi (Douala - Nairobi 1916 miles). Everything went fine at the airport. Well I had forgotten my passport in the restroom but I remembered early enough to get back in time to find my passport still being there. There was a long queue for the visas but I got mine pretty fast.
I really do like this place. The climate here is better for me then the one in Cameroon. It is not as humid and there is a nice wind. The people here are very, very friendly. If you ask for the way they even want to bring you there. The only thing is the hostel I had booked from Cameroon. The people came to pick me up from the airport and were also very friendly, but the bathroom...... it stinks!!!! But I was told that this is because there were problems with the power and the water. And it's true, it is already better today.
Now I am just relaxing, washing and using the internet while I am waiting for Karin to meet me here on March 7th. Karin is my childhood friend and she is working in the D.R.C. since June last year. We will spend two weeks together, yippi!!

Cameroon 17.02. - 01.03.2009

Tomorrow, the big day!!!!!

I am a little stressed because tomorrow I most probably will leave for Africa. Cameroon, I am coming. The last few days were horrible but I survived and now I am ready to take off for my 5 month trip through Africa.

If anyone feels like joining me, just let me know and perhaps we can catch up somewhere.

I wish you all a good time and I will come back in July 2009.